Q: What makes From The Forest products so innovative?
Q: What is HDF?
Q: Is all HDF the same?
Q: Is the Baltic Birch made in the USA?
A: For as many as 60 plus years, North America has tried to make a well balanced plywood core substrate out of pine, fir, alder, basswood, spruce and so on. The challenge with North American manufacturers is they are able to produce the product, but having a consistent platform and having a well-balanced substrate on a consistent basis has been a huge challenge. Also, North American manufacturers of plywood typically slice all veneers under the Imperial dimensions, 1/10”, 1/8”, and so on. These thicknesses are too thick to build a strong balanced product. The consistency of moisture content with rotary peeled technology, are not tight enough standards for building a substrate for engineered flooring . The plywood manufacturers in North America are very good at building construction grade plywood panels as building materials for home construction, this also goes for Canada, as well as South America.
If you were to take a survey of all the manufacturers of engineered hardwood flooring in the United States, you would find more than 80% of them rely on Russian Baltic Birch as their platform of choice. Russian Baltic Birch is sliced in the metric system which is a much tighter standard in veneer layers , and they are also thinner than domestic manufacturers can produce. When buying Baltic Birch platforms, the veneer layers are typically 1.1 millimeters up to 1.3 millimeters depending on the overall thickness of the platform being produced. These thin layers create a well-balanced moisture content with rotary veneers made of spruce are outstanding when it comes to engineered hardwood flooring. The product is made out of a spruce tree which is considered part of the hardwood family. Russian Baltic Birch is unmatched in quality and consistency when looking to build a quality product in engineered flooring.
The statement on our website referring to “flooring raw materials sourced in North America” is mostly referring to the decorative face, the top layer that you see and walk on. The construction is 100% hardwood flooring.
Q: What is Wearmax DWR?
Q: What is the difference between laminate, engineered and solid wood flooring?
- Laminate: pressed particle or medium density fiber (MDF) board with a photograph of wood applied to the surface. Laminate flooring contains NO actual wood. It can be installed almost anywhere, using a click together or glue installation.
- Solid: Generally a 3/4” thick solid block of wood. It can be installed on or above grade by a staple or nail down application.
- Engineered: Engineered floors are better suited for areas where environmental temperature and relative humidity cannot be held to a consistent level. It can be installed above, on, or below grade using glue, nail, and staple or floating applications.
Q: Why do some of your products have a thinner veneer of wood on the top?
Q: Can I request a custom color of engineered hardwood flooring?
Q: How do I repair flooring damage and unfilled knots in my flooring?
Q: What is the average length of the boards in each carton and how much difference is there?
Q: Do your products have low chemical emissions?
Q: What is the fire and smoke rating in a commercial setting?
Q: Is the warranty on my floor transferable?
Q: Do you ship to Canada?
Q: What is the difference between hydronic radiant heat and electric radiant heat? Is From The Forest Flooring approved to be installed over radiant heat?
Q: What is the acclimation period prior to installing my floor?
A: Flooring should be allowed to acclimate for a minimum of 24 hours or until conditions are at normal living conditions and meet minimum installation requirements for moisture content. Relative humidity should be between 35-55% at all times during and after installation.
Q: If I want to staple down part of the wood and float other parts, do I have to order different cartons?
Q: How many times can this floor be sanded and refinished?
Q: Can I install a hardwood floor in a full bathroom?
Q: Can I install an engineered floor over a concrete subfloor?
Q: How do I install moldings for engineered hardwood flooring?
Q: How do I install the Floor Muffler underlayment?
Q: How do I install engineered flooring on stairs?
Q: How do I stagger the flooring?
- Stagger end joints from row to row by at least 12". Avoid ‘H’ patterns, where planks just two rows away from each other end in the same location. Continue installing the second row and cut the last board to size just as you did in the first. After installing three rows, recheck your spacers to ensure that the proper 3/8" expansion space is being maintained.
Tongue and Groove
- Stagger end joints (at least 8”) and randomly install different lengths to ensure natural appearance. Do not create discernible patterns such as “H” or “steps”. Select boards to create a uniform appearance without clusters of short lengths or sections of light or dark planks. Do not install any objectionable boards that have visual defects or are not consistent with the grade being installed
Q: Can I lay a mat or a rug on my flooring?
A: All mats or rugs should be cleaned and/or replaced on a regular basis. They should also be moved occasionally to allow natural color changes caused by light to occur evenly in all areas. To prevent the rug from moving or slipping, place a non-skid grip liner underneath the rug or mat. Never use latex or rubber backed mats; they will permanently stain the floor.
Q: Why does my flooring look cloudy?
Q: The installation adhesive I used to glue my floor left a residue. What is the best way to clean and remove this?
A: You can use full strength acetone or goo gone to remove the adhesive. Remember to change the rag frequently to avoid spreading the glue during clean up. We would recommend starting with a small area first and clean it directly with acetone ( 2'x2' area). Make sure the rag remains clean. If the rag gets build up on it, you will only continue to spread the glue around the floor. Once the 2'x2' area has been cleaned with acetone, then wipe it down with straight water (damp mop or rag, be sure not to saturate the floor). It will take some time and effort to remove all the installation adhesive or haze off the floor.